{"id":4450,"date":"2026-01-02T22:31:21","date_gmt":"2026-01-02T22:31:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/12-days-of-japan\/days-10-12-nikko-and-back-to-tokyo\/"},"modified":"2026-01-25T17:34:24","modified_gmt":"2026-01-25T17:34:24","slug":"days-10-12-nikko-and-back-to-tokyo","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/12-days-of-japan\/days-10-12-nikko-and-back-to-tokyo\/","title":{"rendered":"Days 10-12: Nikko and back to Tokyo"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

days 10-12<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

Nikko and Tokyo, before leaving for Vietnam<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

legend<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

\u2734\ufe0f = best choice!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

DAY 10<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

Nikko between temples and nature<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

To reach Nikko from Tokyo, we take the direct Spacia X Nikko<\/strong> train from Shinjuku Station. We booked our tickets in advance at the JR ticket office and arrive at our destination in about two hours. <\/p>

Nikko is famous for its shrines and temples, considered among the most beautiful in Japan and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site<\/strong>, immersed in the lush nature of the national park. The most famous complexes are crowded with tourists, but simply take one of the paths that lead into the woods to discover smaller, quieter and incredibly evocative temples. <\/p>

As we walk without a specific destination along one of these paths, we witness an extraordinary natural spectacle. Above our heads, three large birds perch on a tree. Struck by the size of one of them, I take my telephoto lens out of my rucksack and recognise an owl \u2014 we later discover that it is a magnificent Ural owl<\/strong> \u2014 attacked by two crows, probably in an attempt to chase it away from their territory. After a few minutes, the three take flight, but the cries of the crows continue to echo in the woods for a while longer. With goose bumps and incredulous eyes, we resume our walk. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

some interesting facts<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t<\/i>\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

This brings us to a wonderful complex of temples. Among them is Takinoo-jinja Shrine <\/a>\u2734\ufe0f, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
At the entrance there is a torii gate with a hole in the centre. Legend has it that if you throw a stone three times and manage to get it through the hole, your wish will come true. <\/strong>
Another tradition concerns the small stone bridge behind the temple: crossing it by taking a number of steps equal to your age is said to bring good fortune.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

After a filling sushi dinner, enjoyed sitting on tatami mats at Komekichi Kouzushi<\/a>, we decide to stop at a bar on the way back to the ryokan. It’s another unusual place we come across during this trip: this time, the owner is a big fan of trains and cats.<\/strong> <\/p>

The walls are covered with photographs of cats \u2014 one of the owner’s cats has even become the bar’s mascot \u2014 while beautiful miniature train models, with attention to the smallest details, whizz around the centre of the bar<\/strong>. Even the name, Wine Bar BLESS<\/a>, is perfectly consistent with what is on offer: the menu features exclusively Japanese wines. <\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>

<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/article><\/div>
<\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

WHERE WE STAYED<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t<\/i>\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

Nikko Tokinoyuu<\/b><\/a><\/p>

Beautiful ryokan, with attention to every detail and a public onsen-style bath. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

day 11<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

we'are clooooding<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

We take it easy in the morning, perhaps a little too easy. We go downstairs and each enter our own onsen \u2014 men and women separated, as is traditional \u2014 allowing ourselves a few minutes of pure relaxation. <\/p>

Once outside, some of us wrapped in bathrobes (me) and others without (Mattia), we stop in the entrance area to dry our hair. It is at that moment that, first on one side and then on the other, the receptionist appears: a shy, small woman in her sixties. With somewhat uncertain English and a shy smile, she informs us with a delicate \u2018cloooodiiing\u2019, pointing to the clock, that the onsen is about to close for cleaning. Only she knows what she has seen. <\/p>

Pretending nothing has happened, we get ready, hand in our keys at reception and leave. We take a few last looks at the temples and I take the opportunity to ask a family who are celebrating if I can take a photo of their little girl, dressed in traditional clothing. <\/p>

The day before, we had spotted a nice little restaurant at the end of the park, a local grill and steakhouse <\/a>that was completely full, so we booked a table for lunch today. At the entrance, we are asked to take off our shoes and are welcomed into a beautiful wooden dining room, frequented almost exclusively by locals. Many families were celebrating with their children, and the atmosphere was peaceful, refined and very authentic. The restaurant offers Western-influenced cuisine \u2014 there is even onion soup on the menu \u2014 and we ordered a hamburger with yuba<\/strong>, the skin of soy milk that forms during boiling and is considered a real speciality here.<\/strong> <\/p>

In the early afternoon, we walk to the station and, while waiting for the train, we have a snack at Meiji no Yakata cake shop<\/a>, a charming caf\u00e9 next to the station that serves excellent pastries. The direct train takes us back to Tokyo<\/strong>, to Shinjuku station, in about two hours.<\/p>

For dinner, we eat at Chukumidosa<\/a>, a restaurant behind our hotel that offers a single dish: octopus cooked on a large griddle in the centre of the table<\/strong>, seasoned with a very spicy tomato sauce. They then use the cooking juices to prepare griddle rice<\/strong>, a sort of typical Korean paella.<\/p>

In the evening, we try to explore Tokyo in search of a jazz club, but we discover that, as it is Culture Day, they are all closed.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

day 12<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

SHOPPING in TOKYO<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t

LAST CALL FOR SOUVENIRS<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

Today, to Mattia’s delight, the day is entirely devoted to shopping. Until now, I had (almost) refrained from buying souvenirs, but this is the last good opportunity to do so, so let’s get started! Here are the stops for the day: <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

\n\t\t\t\t
\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
  1. Pokemon Centre DX <\/strong>\u2013 near the Ginza district.<\/li>
  2. ITOYA Stationery Store<\/strong> in Ginza: eight floors filled with colours, pens, prints, watercolours and everything a stationery lover could desire.<\/li>
  3. Tsukiji Market <\/strong>\u2013 for a memorable lunch at Sushi Dai<\/a>. We discovered this place on our first trip to Japan, and once again it proved to be the best sushi we have ever eaten<\/strong>. The omakase<\/em><\/strong> they prepared for us was special. An excellent variety of fish<\/strong>: Spanish mackerel, clams, Hokkaido prawns, scallops, sea urchins, tuna of varying fat content, boiled eel… every piece was perfect and delicious. The top choice of top choices \u2734\ufe0f <\/li>
  4. Harajuku \u2013 Liberty Walk<\/strong>, Mattia’s choice: a shop famous among JDM car enthusiasts<\/strong>, located in Harajuku, the youth fashion district.<\/li>
  5. Magazines<\/strong>, in Ueno: a shop we noticed on our first day, with beautiful embroidered T-shirts and sweatshirts. Unfortunately, they were unisex and size S was enormous. <\/li>
  6. Gyoza Ohsho <\/a>in Yurakucho, on Gado-shita Street, <\/strong>an area frequented by salarymen. Very good udon and gyoza. <\/li>
  7. To conclude and make Mattia happy too: Akihabara, UDX car park <\/strong>and station area, looking for special cars.<\/li><\/ol>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t

    DAY 13<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t

    THE JOURNEY CONTINUES... IN VIETNAM! <\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t

    After 12 days in Japan, it’s time for a new adventure: we’re off to Vietnam!<\/strong>
    Keep following us and take a flight with us to Hanoi<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

    \n\t\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tFLY TO VIETNAM WITH US!<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t
    \n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    days 10-12 Nikko and Tokyo, before leaving for Vietnam legend \u2734\ufe0f = best choice! DAY 10 Nikko between temples and nature To reach Nikko from Tokyo, we take the direct Spacia X Nikko train from Shinjuku Station. We booked our tickets in advance at the JR ticket office and arrive at our destination in about two hours. Nikko is famous for its shrines and temples, considered among the most beautiful in Japan and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, immersed in the lush nature of the national park. The most famous complexes are crowded with tourists, but simply take one of the paths that lead into the woods to discover smaller, quieter and incredibly evocative temples. As we walk without a specific destination along one of these paths, we witness an extraordinary natural spectacle. Above our heads, three large birds perch on a tree. Struck by the size of one of them, I take my telephoto lens out of my rucksack and recognise an owl \u2014 we later discover that it is a magnificent Ural owl \u2014 attacked by two crows, probably in an attempt to chase it away from their territory. After a few minutes, the three take flight, but the cries of the crows continue to echo in the woods for a while longer. With goose bumps and incredulous eyes, we resume our walk. some interesting facts This brings us to a wonderful complex of temples. Among them is Takinoo-jinja Shrine \u2734\ufe0f, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At the entrance there is a torii gate with a hole in the centre. Legend has it that if you throw a stone three times and manage to get it through the hole, your wish will come true. Another tradition concerns the small stone bridge behind the temple: crossing it by taking a number of steps equal to your age is said to bring good fortune. After a filling sushi dinner, enjoyed sitting on tatami mats at Komekichi Kouzushi, we decide to stop at a bar on the way back to the ryokan. It’s another unusual place we come across during this trip: this time, the owner is a big fan of trains and cats. The walls are covered with photographs of cats \u2014 one of the owner’s cats has even become the bar’s mascot \u2014 while beautiful miniature train models, with attention to the smallest details, whizz around the centre of the bar. Even the name, Wine Bar BLESS, is perfectly consistent with what is on offer: the menu features exclusively Japanese wines. WHERE WE STAYED Nikko Tokinoyuu Beautiful ryokan, with attention to every detail and a public onsen-style bath. day 11 we’are clooooding We take it easy in the morning, perhaps a little too easy. We go downstairs and each enter our own onsen \u2014 men and women separated, as is traditional \u2014 allowing ourselves a few minutes of pure relaxation. Once outside, some of us wrapped in bathrobes (me) and others without (Mattia), we stop in the entrance area to dry our hair. It is at that moment that, first on one side and then on the other, the receptionist appears: a shy, small woman in her sixties. With somewhat uncertain English and a shy smile, she informs us with a delicate \u2018cloooodiiing\u2019, pointing to the clock, that the onsen is about to close for cleaning. Only she knows what she has seen. Pretending nothing has happened, we get ready, hand in our keys at reception and leave. We take a few last looks at the temples and I take the opportunity to ask a family who are celebrating if I can take a photo of their little girl, dressed in traditional clothing. The day before, we had spotted a nice little restaurant at the end of the park, a local grill and steakhouse that was completely full, so we booked a table for lunch today. At the entrance, we are asked to take off our shoes and are welcomed into a beautiful wooden dining room, frequented almost exclusively by locals. Many families were celebrating with their children, and the atmosphere was peaceful, refined and very authentic. The restaurant offers Western-influenced cuisine \u2014 there is even onion soup on the menu \u2014 and we ordered a hamburger with yuba, the skin of soy milk that forms during boiling and is considered a real speciality here. In the early afternoon, we walk to the station and, while waiting for the train, we have a snack at Meiji no Yakata cake shop, a charming caf\u00e9 next to the station that serves excellent pastries. The direct train takes us back to Tokyo, to Shinjuku station, in about two hours. For dinner, we eat at Chukumidosa, a restaurant behind our hotel that offers a single dish: octopus cooked on a large griddle in the centre of the table, seasoned with a very spicy tomato sauce. They then use the cooking juices to prepare griddle rice, a sort of typical Korean paella. In the evening, we try to explore Tokyo in search of a jazz club, but we discover that, as it is Culture Day, they are all closed. day 12 SHOPPING in TOKYO LAST CALL FOR SOUVENIRS Today, to Mattia’s delight, the day is entirely devoted to shopping. Until now, I had (almost) refrained from buying souvenirs, but this is the last good opportunity to do so, so let’s get started! Here are the stops for the day: Pokemon Centre DX \u2013 near the Ginza district. ITOYA Stationery Store in Ginza: eight floors filled with colours, pens, prints, watercolours and everything a stationery lover could desire. Tsukiji Market \u2013 for a memorable lunch at Sushi Dai. We discovered this place on our first trip to Japan, and once again it proved to be the best sushi we have ever eaten. The omakase they prepared for us was special. An excellent variety of fish: Spanish mackerel, clams, Hokkaido prawns, scallops, sea urchins, tuna of varying fat content, boiled eel… every piece<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":4434,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"elementor_header_footer","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-4450","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4450","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=4450"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4450\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4584,"href":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4450\/revisions\/4584"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/4434"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/notanordinarytour.it\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=4450"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}