day 5

civita di bagnoregio & orvieto

legend

✴️ = best choice!

day 5

civita

From our Starsbox at Fattoria la Maliosa, we drive to Civita di Bagnoregio, following the border between Tuscany, Lazio and Umbria. The drive takes about 1 hour and 10 minutes.

Described by the writer Bonaventura Tecchi as ‘the dying city’, Civita di Bagnoregio is an ancient village that seems to have stepped out of the pages of a novel by J.R.R. Tolkien, the author of The Lord of the Rings.

Located in the heart of Latium, in the province of Viterbo, the town stands alone on a fragile spur of clay, which is slowly collapsing due to erosion and is in danger of crumbling over time.

For this reason, it can only be accessed on foot, via a bridge, upon purchase of a €5.00 ticket.

A place suspended in the void, as mystical as it is fascinating.

For lunch we enjoy a delicious pasta carbonara at the Ripi&Go restaurant in Bagnoregio (the actual municipality, of which Civita is a suburb). Tasty, greasy and fatty: exactly what we needed. ✴️

& ORVIETO

After lunch we drive back to Orvieto, in Umbria (province of Terni).

This city really amazed us! It is one of those places that make you think, ‘I would live here’. Quiet, just the right size, well maintained and organised.

It really lacks nothing: it is immersed in the beautiful Umbrian hills, rich in art and history – with the majestic Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the suggestive St Patrick’s Well – and full of small shops, bars and typical restaurants.

For dinner, we were looking for an osteria where we could eat something simple and authentic.
Right in the historic centre, we found Trattoria Mezza Luna, which satisfied us completely. ✴️
Intimate atmosphere and 100% traditional cuisine. We tasted two first courses: lombrichelle (a type of fresh homemade pasta) all’amatriciana and all’etrusca, with sausage and porcini mushrooms.

For aperitifs, on the other hand, we recommend the Palace Caffè, in Piazza del Popolo: excellent Spritz and hearty appetisers!

We slept at the Affittacamere Valentina, a kind of diffuse hotel in a very central location. Our flat was very neat and very special. ✴️