The first thing we do, whenever we set foot on a new island, is to explore its perimeter in search of the most beautiful and wild coves.

For this adventure we had organized in advance: we knew that the most famous and well-equipped beaches – the ones we usually try to avoid – are in the southeast, easily reached by the main, all-paved road (shown in red on the map).

Thus, like hunter hounds, we boarded our rented SUV and headed west, in the direction of Agia Eleni beach. From there a dirt road runs along the coast to the opposite side of the island, where Kechria beach is located. To our surprise, the route turned out to be smoother than expected.

Along the way, several paths branch off down to the sea. Our first stop was Mandraki Beach, perfect for a food stop. There is a small eatery here, still open in October (late in the season), offering toast and omelets.

A word of advice: if you want to know exactly what the weather will be like in the following days, ask the owner. She has always scanned the horizon and seems to be able to predict rain even when the official weather gives full sun!

Halfway we recommend a special stop at the Skiathos Dog Shelter, a shelter for abandoned dogs run by British volunteers. In the morning it is possible to walk them, giving them cuddles and some freedom. We grew fond of Sheba and Laser, two hound dogs with opposite personalities: he shy, she a volcano of energy.

We then continued on to the third stage, parking a short distance from Mikros Aselinos beach. As we walked down the path to it, we noticed on the left a dimly visible trail through the brambles: a narrow and somewhat exposed path that led to a completely deserted corner of sand. There we spent the rest of the day in total peace (be careful though: you need proper shoes to get there!).

In the evening we returned to our lodging, a simple but comfortable B&B located in the heart of Skiathos Town, the island’s main town, where most of the stores and restaurants are located.

For dinner we drove to a typical Greek taverna: Maistrali. Frequented mostly by locals, it offers traditional dishes and an unforgettable moussaka, prepared with love by the family’s mother.