The Love Trail & Capoliveri
✴️ = best choice!
From our accommodation, located near Marina di Campo, it takes about 45 minutes by car to reach the characteristic village of Rio Marina. This village is definitely worth a visit, not only for its charm, but also for its mining activity, which has played an important role in the history of the island.
On the way, we stop at a supermarket to buy the food we need for our packed lunch, which we will enjoy later at the seashore.
After a rich breakfast, from the Appiani Tower – overlooking the port of Rio – we begin our walk along the Sentiero dell’Amore (Love Trail): an evocative itinerary connecting Rio Marina to the bay of Ortano. ✴️ The path, surrounded by lush vegetation, takes us past Oleanders, Nasturtiums, Poppies and Prickly Pears, offering glimpses of the clear sea.
The route begins with an asphalt road that starts right behind the tower. After a short while, it turns into a dirt road and finally into a scenic path with a wonderful view of the sea, leading to the beach at Ortano.
The walking time is approximately one hour, with a total length of 3.5 km. Comfortable footwear suitable for light trekking is recommended (flip-flops are not recommended).
Along the route, which is not always well marked (there is no dedicated GPX track to follow), there are several forks that lead to hidden coves, such as Marina di Gennaro, Luisi d’Angelo and the Porticciolo beach. The path is not always clearly marked, but it is worth exploring.
With the exception of the first beach, which is more frequented due to its proximity to the centre of Rio Marina, the other two are usually deserted, offering an experience of peace and isolation.
We set off with the idea of walking the entire path to Ortano, with the intention of choosing on the way back the beach that would seem most beautiful to us for a break. Once in Ortano, however, we immediately fell in love with the view. Just a few steps from the main beach, from above, we spotted a small, hidden bay that could only be reached by passing along a cliff. And so, without thinking too much about it, we decided to adventure there.
Caution: the cliff section is not suitable for everyone. You need some agility, because in some places you have to scramble between the rocks.
But once you get there, the effort is repaid: peace and privacy are practically guaranteed.
After returning to the car, we set off in the direction of Capoliveri, where we decided to spend the evening.
Capoliveri is an enchanting village, clinging to a hill and full of atmosphere. In the heart of the village, we recommend a stop at Controvento for an aperitif overlooking Piazza Giacomo Matteotti: well-made cocktails and a perfect setting to enjoy the sunset.
For dinner, don’t miss the legendary Cacciuccio Blues ✴️, a truly authentic little place tucked right under the piazza. As the menu defines it, it is an ‘easy place’, with just six tables and a warm, convivial atmosphere. The real star is Francesco, the owner: an authentic one-man show. He does everything – takes orders, cooks, serves and entertains guests – with an overwhelming charm. At the end of the meal, it is not rare that he even offers you a shot of good tequila.
The menu is basic but surprising: each dish is a small explosion of flavour. We tried the cacciucco and the moscardini ‘briai’ served on stale bread – a real treat. The portions are generous and the quality very high. One of those rare places where a ‘oh my god, it’s sooo good’ escapes you at the first bite.
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