✴️ = best choice!
Before leaving, we decided to treat ourselves to a little “luxury” during this vacation: spending a night on a junk, the traditional boat, right in the bay. We booked this experience ✴️ (two days and one night) directly on Get Your Guide. The package also includes pick-up from our hotel in Tam Coc and a luxury bus transfer lasting approximately three hours.
Once we arrive, we take a first ferry that takes us into the bay, where the actual boat awaits us. On board, we are immediately welcomed with a lavish buffet lunch, after which we settle into our cabin: spacious, with a private balcony, a large bathtub and – needless to say – a simply breathtaking view.
Meanwhile, the boat starts its engines and begins to sail slowly among the spectacular limestone cliffs, offering incredible views while in the distance, among the cliffs of the bay, ospreys and other birds of prey can be seen circling. In the afternoon, we stop in a particularly peaceful area for a kayak trip, during which we paddle among sea stacks and rock formations shaped over time by alternating periods of emergence and erosion by the water.
Every now and then, small rowing boats glide alongside our junk: these are “floating” vendors, trying to attract the attention of tourists by displaying local fruits and products.
Among the activities included on board is a cooking show, during which we are taught how to prepare spring rolls, and the curious and fun experience of night-time squid fishing, armed only with a small fishing line and a little patience. Spoiler alert: the only one who succeeded was a little girl!
The boat is quite large, furnished in traditional style, and the crew is extremely courteous and attentive: an experience that proved to be truly special.
The alarm clock rings early. Those who wish can start the day with a tai chi session on the deck of the boat. Mattia turns over, while I go up alone to enjoy the sunrise and capture a few shots of the colours reflecting on the water. Tai Chi? We’ll leave that until next time.
After breakfast, we head to Cat Ba Island, first by boat and then by bus. Our destination is Hospital Cave, a hidden cave that served as a shelter and hospital for wounded soldiers during the Vietnam War. Walking through the rooms carved into the rock gives a tangible idea of life in those years and the difficulties of those who lived through it.
Cat Ba deserves a special mention. The island is surprisingly peaceful and known as ‘the island of womens’: while the men were at the front, the womens cultivated the fields and brought food to the army. Today it is a welcoming tourist destination, with small resorts and guesthouses surrounded by nature. If we had had a few more days, we would have explored it more carefully.
After the visit, we return to the junk for a final brunch before heading back to Ha Long harbour. Here, a minibus awaits us to take us back to Hanoi.
The day ends with a touch of music at the Binh Minh Jazz Club, founded by a famous local saxophonist. We discover a new side to Hanoi: an elegant and peaceful neighbourhood with wide streets and the Opera House nearby. It is surprising how, in just a few kilometres, you can go from the chaos of the markets to an orderly, almost European atmosphere.
The last day, but no less intense for that.
We leave our backpacks at the hotel (we will pick them up this evening, before our flight) and take a Grab to the soy village of Ban Yen Nhan, about 30 km from Hanoi. Once there, we look for the place where the large jars full of sauce are exposed to the sun, the ones we had seen in so many photos. The locals, who don’t speak a word of English, keep sending us from one place to another, without giving us any real directions. After a few attempts, we decide to do some more research online: we discover that the period when the jars are left to ferment in the sun is spring. That’s why, when we asked, many people only showed us jars with the sauce already ready!
We look for a Grab to take us back to the city, but there is nothing available for miles around. We are the only tourists in the village, and the curious and astonished glances of the locals follow us everywhere.
Just when we think all hope is lost, we see a car with the classic “taxi” sign. We flag it down and try to find out if it can take us to Hanoi and how much it will cost.
He is a very young driver who does not speak a word of English, and he calls someone on the phone several times to discuss the situation. In the end, he accepts, and we get in: we immediately realise that he is rather inexperienced. The car threatens to stall at every traffic light, and he seems to be really struggling. With a few directions from a passer-by and a bit of luck, we manage to arrive in the city safe and sound. The driver thanks us, hugs us and asks us for a souvenir photo — perhaps the taxi belonged to his father, borrowed to go shopping before he met us!
From the Temple of Literature, we walk towards the historic district. The area is poor, and we venture into narrow alleys lined with small, dusty shops. Here we witness a couple of scenes that leave a lasting impression: an organised cockfight and the slaughter of a pig in the street, in broad daylight.
Evening falls and, after an aperitif with a couple from our area, who are also on holiday here, it’s time to take a taxi to the airport. At 1:20 a.m., our direct flight to Milan Malpensa with Vietnam Airlines awaits us, bringing an intense and unforgettable trip to a close.
Did you know that before Vietnam we spent 12 days in Japan?
If you missed the first part of the journey,
Linda e Mattia
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